How to Build Your Own Poker Table for Under $300 (Images & Plans)

I also made my own poker table, a great experience. Wrap the felt over the next side, and fold the excess under like gift wrap. Padded green felt; pokertablematerials. Take a length of twine that is half the length of the table, plus a small amount of extra twine to connect the twine to the screw at 1 end and a pencil at the other end. It can also be stored on its side or moved to another location. Remember to always pull very hard when stapling.

Overview for How to Build a Poker Table

Complete CAD Blueprints for the DIY Poker Table

Center the hole saw on the crosshair of your two degree marks. Use grit sandpaper to smooth the inside edges of the circular cutout. Repeat to create a total of eight coasters. Place the coasters on the playing table inside the 1x2 edge pieces so that the angled ends line up with a mitered joint and all face the same direction. Nail the coaster in place from the underside of the table using 1-inch nails.

Hold the nail gun at a slight angle to prevent any portion of the nail from poking up through the coaster piece. Lay a length of 1x2 flat on the table inside the ring of coaster blocks so that the edge of the 1x2 sits against the top edge of a coaster block. Mark the distance between the angled ends of two coasters. Lay the piece in place, and mark the remaining pieces until all the pieces of the inner ring are sized.

Apply glue to the underside and ends of each piece, set them in place, and nail through the underside of the table to secure them. To help position the nail gun underneath the table, cut a scrap piece of 1x2 to the distance the inner ring sits from the edge of the table and nail it to a second perpendicular block to create a T-shaped spacer.

Hook the T on the edge of the table with the stem underneath, and position the nail gun at the end of the stem. Mark the corners of the table on the top edge of the 1x3. Cut the MDF playing surface to this size. Lay the cut piece centered over the open center space. Mark the joints of the inner ring of 1x2s on the playing surface. Connect the marks on either side of each corner to create a small octagon. Using a circular saw, cut the corners off the playing surface. Label the corresponding side of the playing surface and table.

This way, once the felt is wrapped around the playing surface, you'll know which sides align. Coat the underside of the felt and the top of the playing surface with spray adhesive. Allow the adhesive to dry until it feels tacky. Set the playing surface upside down on the center of the felt. Wrap the felt over one edge and secure it in place with a staple.

Wrap the felt over the next side, and fold the excess under like gift wrap. Once all the edges are pulled tight and the felt is glued and stapled in place, cut off the excess with utility scissors and set the playing surface aside.

Cut two 1x4 boards to the width of the upper part of the newel post. Apply glue to the ends of the short pieces, and sandwich them between the longer pieces to create a box. Center the assembled collar on the underside of the table, and mark its inside and outside perimeters.

Apply glue to the top edge of the collar, and place it on the underside of the table, realigned with your previous marks. Allow the glue to dry until it holds the collar in place—or toenail a few nails around its edge to hold it—and flip the table over.

Using a countersink bit, prepare the pilot holes and drive 2-inch screws through the plywood and into the top edges of the collar. To position the taper of the newel post about half way between the table and the floor, cut the top and bottom of the post. First mark the cutlines 29 inches apart on all four sides of the post. Place the post on the miter saw, and cut it to size.

If your miter saw can't cut the thickness of the entire post, cut part way through, then roll the post to the opposite face to finish the cut. Set the cut sheet of MDF on the top of the base.

The MDF should overhang the each side of the 2x4 top brace about one inch. Adjust until it is equal. Measure over 14 inches from each corner, draw a line and cut the corners off.

Measure over eight inches from each corner, draw a line and cut the corners off. Wrap the MDF in the foam and staple it to the underside of the board. Do the same with the felt. Attach this felt top to the oak in the same manner you attached the oak top to the MDF. Wrap the 2x4 rails in the foam and then the vinyl. Attach them to the edge of the oak top all the way around. To make the holes for the recessed cups, use the base of the cup and a pencil to trace the cup's shape onto the wood.

With the forstner bit, drill two holes on either side of the circle. Use a router to cut out the rest of the circle. Sign up for weekly project ideas and advice from experts. Sand and Mark the Wood Sand all of the base pieces before beginning the assembly. Assemble the Base Place each vertical leg 21" on a flat surface with the hole sides facing away from each other. Mark the Top Platforms Set the 2x4 top braces on edge across each side perpendicular to the top platforms. Add the Rails Wrap the 2x4 rails in the foam and then the vinyl.

Cut Holes for the Recessed Cups To make the holes for the recessed cups, use the base of the cup and a pencil to trace the cup's shape onto the wood. How to Build a Horseshoe Pit 9 Steps. Sand and Mark the Wood Step 2: Drill Holes in the Wood Step 3: Assemble the Base Step 4: Attach the Legs Step 5: Mark the Top Platforms Step 6: Finish the Base Step 7: Build the Oak Tabletop Step Attach the Felt Top Step Add the Rails Step Straight Poker Supplies www.

Your Auto Trim www. Foam By Mail www. After all my cut lines were laid out, I created a jig out of some scrap wood to guide my jigsaw in a perfect circle through the round cuts. I ended up going really slowly with the jigsaw by hand and then sanding the edges smooth with a belt sander.

These three pieces were all cut from a single plywood sheet. The next step is gluing and screwing all the rail pieces together, making sure to avoid putting screws in spots where the future cup holders will go. Screw from the bottom surface of the rail - the top surface should be as consistent and smooth as possible. Use wood filler if there are any holes from knots. There are three layers of plywood in this design to give the rail extra height.

The first two assembled layers are shown here upside down — the top surface should be the single plywood piece. Next, the two oval plywood sheets are glued and screwed together and the fold-out legs are added. If you want to stain the underside of the table, you should do it before attaching the legs.

If you want to be a bit fancier install wooden legs instead. I personally needed the portability and this finished table weighs roughly 80lbs. Clamp the rough assembly together to drill the holes for the T-nuts.

This is done so that the rail can be removed for cleaning or in case something needs to be replaced potentially the poker speed cloth. Use a hammer to drive the T-nuts into the rail surface. This needs to be flush; otherwise you may have bumps under your rail. Once the T-nuts are installed, fasten the assembled rail to the playing surface using the eight machine bolts coupled with the washers.

Remove the rail assembly from the table. Leave it like this for an hour with a few heavy objects on top. Make some rough cuts in the foam to make it workable. Use the spray adhesive again on the sides of the rail and wrap it like shown. You may want to clamp the straight sides using a scrap piece of wood to hold it while it dries.

You may have to re-apply spray adhesive more than once because it may peel off the rail in a few places. Your hands may hurt for a few days afterwards from all the stapling but it is well worth the effort. This may seem to be a problem at first but you will need to stretch the vinyl with all your strength to get it all the way around the other side. After you staple the straight edges you need to staple the round edges. Start stapling at the middle of the curve. Make sure you stretch the vinyl to make it as tight as you can.

Each new staple should be placed in the middle of the largest unstapled section until you feel as if you have it all secured. This will most likely require staples to be very close to each other. Take your time with this because this is the most important step to make your table look great.

Like before, on the curved section, each staple should be placed in the middle of the largest unstapled section until you feel as if you have it all secured.

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